Tag: Paris

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So Many Museums

Museums in Paris

Paris is full of museums. That’s a given.

Think about The Louvre, the Centre Pompidou, Musee d’Orsay, Petit Palais, Musee Picasso Paris, Musee de l’Orangerie, Musee Rodin…I could go on and on.

This time, we visited a smaller museum. The Museum of Montmartre, located in the oldest house on the hill of Montmartre, takes you a step back in time. Fourteen personalities lived here at one time. This bohemian quarter was home to Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Duffy, and more.

Now, it houses the permanent collection of paintings, posters, and drawings signed by Toulouse-Lautrec, Modigliani, Kupka, Valadon, and Utrillo. These artworks recount the history of Montmartre, including the infamous cabarets of the Lapin Agile and the Moulin Rouge.

One whole room is dedicated to the French Cancan. Another one features rare zinc plates of scenes from shadow theatre like Le Chat Noir, the first modern cabaret opened in 1881.

After viewing three floors of paintings and posters, take a walk in the gardens. Dedicated to Auguste Renoir, these gardens offer breathtaking views of the vineyard below and the entire northern cityscape of Paris.

Renoir lived on site from 1875 to 1877. During this time, he painted his famous le Bal du Moulin de la Galette, La Balancoire, and Jardin de la rue Cortot.

This is truly a relaxing spot just steps from the busy streets.

If You Go: The museum and gardens are open every day from 10 am to 6 pm. It is located at 12 rue Cortot in Paris. Check the Metro map to get fairly close and walk up the hill.

It’s definitely worth the effort to get there.

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Au Lapin Agile

Au Lapin Agile

Walking toward a museum in the Montmartre neighborhood of Paris, we noticed what we thought was a small restaurant. It was right across the street from Clos Montmartre, the vineyard nestled on the hills below the museum.

With the name Au Lapin Agile on the sign, we laughed at the translation. The agile rabbit…cute name.

Continuing on to the Museum of Montmartre, we noticed a painting by Andre Gill, named Au Lapin Agile. Same painting as the restaurant. Okay, time to learn more about this rabbit.

What we thought was a small restaurant is actually Paris’ oldest bar-cabaret and a Montmartre landmark. It’s been here since 1860. When it opened, its name was Au Rendez Vous des Voleurs, or at the rendez-vous of thieves. Apparently, Montmartre was not the best neighborhood at that time. Thieves would have been present.

Then, 20 years later, the name changed to the Cabaret des Assassins. Stories exist as to why the name changed. One says the owner’s son was murdered by a violent gang.

Another name change happened in 1875, as the artist Andre Gill painted a sign featuring a rabbit with a top hat jumping out of a large pan holding a bottle of wine. Supposedly, the painting was commissioned on the request of Madame Sals, the lady and cook of the house. Guess what she was known for?

Her rabbit stews.

The sign was displayed and the residents starting calling the cabaret Gills Rabbit or Le Lapin a Gill in French. This name changed into The Nimble Rabbit. He is, after all, gracefully jumping out of the pan holding the bottle of wine. No spilling or dropping the wine.

And, not landing in a pan of stew. Quite the play on words and on the painting.

Artists came here to discuss their works, debate the meaning of art, soak up the latest vibes, and gain inspiration for their own craft. Picasso, Modigliani, Van Gogh, Utrillo, and others frequented the cabaret.

Famous paintings lined the walls at one time. Some have been moved to art museums around the world. Still others remain.

As for the cabaret, don’t expect a residential version of Moulin Rouge. It’s not that type of cabaret. No tourist entertainment, no can-cans, no scantily clad beautiful women in feathers and diamonds, and no expensive, moderate champagne. This is a small, village house. Not a lot of room inside.

If you like folk music, poetry, and an authentic representation of vintage Montmartre life, this would be the place for you. It’s low key, genuine, full of history, and definitely retro. It’s truly an artistic cabaret.

If You Go: Au Lapin Agile is located at 22 rue des Saules, Paris. Hours are 9 PM to 1 AM, every day except Monday. They do serve Ruinart Champagne.

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Eiffel Tower…Did You Know?

Eiffel Tower Facts

  • The Eiffel Tower was first unveiled in 1889 at the Paris World Fair
  • It was considered an eyesore by many important people
  • Some called it a tragic streetlamp that was deformed and ridiculous
  • 130 years later it has become one of the most iconic and recognizable landmarks in the world
  • Over 7 million people visit every year
  • Dubbed the Iron Lady, she has undergone a few face lifts
  • You can buy your ticket online 60 days in advance, so you don’t have to stand in the mile-long, winding ticket line
  • You can buy a ticket only on site if you want to climb the stairs
  • Go to Place de Trocadero on metro lines 6 and 9 to get an amazing view of her hourly night light show
  • The tower is open until 11:45 pm
  • The last lift to the top is at 10:30 pm
  • At night the tower is lit
  • On the hour, every hour, until 1:00 am there is a dazzling light display
  • 20,000 light bulbs, 5,000 per side, sparkle in the night
  • This show only lasts for 5 minutes each hour
  • Restaurants in the Eiffel Tower include 58 Tour Eiffel, 58 meters above ground level
  • Le Jules Verne offers fine dining
  • Engineers built the tower to be wind resistant
  • During a storm she will sway a few inches
  • Summer heat and sun can also maker her swell and grow up to 6 inches
  • She was supposed to be dismantled after 20 years
  • When she was built, she housed a meteorology lab and would be used for scientific experiments in physics, astronomy, wind, aerodynamics, and electric lighting
  • The tower’s ability to be used as a wireless broadcast transmission antenna is what saved it from destruction
  • There are 120 antennas used to broadcast 45 TV channels and 32 radio stations in Paris
  • She has been repainted 18 times…by hand
  • Her first coat of paint was a reddish brown
  • Today her color is bronze
  • About every 7 years a team of 25 painters strip, clean, rust-proof, and repaint the entire tower…by hand
  • The paint job takes about 18 months
  • It takes 60 tons of paint and 1,5000 brushes to finish each job
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Paris…Enjoy, Don’t Hurry

Paris Tips

Paris is a great city to explore. It’s also huge and can be confusing if you’re there for the first time. Check out these tips to help your visit be the best it can be.

There are many free things to do in the City of Light. If you don’t want to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower, at least walk to it to check it out. If you go early in the morning, you can avoid many of the crowds. For a great view of the city, head to Montmartre in the 18th arrondissement and walk up the steps of the Sacre-Coeur. Even if cemeteries don’t rank high on your list, you should visit Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise, Paris’s largest cemetery in the 20th arrondissement. Jim Morrison and Oscar Wilde are buried there. It’s old and parts are crumbling. It’s still impressive.

If you are looking to maximize your time and budget, buy the Paris Pass. It’s worth the money and your time. Not only do you get admission to over 60 attractions and museums…you also get to avoid the long lines to buy tickets and then the long lines to get in. All for a one-time fee. Activate it when you are ready to use it for the first time. It’s good for the length of time you purchased…3 day, 5 day, 7 day.

Understand the difference between the Metro and RER. The Metro has 16 lines with short distances between its stations. The RER has five lines that are faster than the Metro. There are fewer stops as well. RER reaches the suburbs.

Unless you like sparkling water, ask for the carafe of tap water. It’s safe and free. Know that menu prices already include a 10 or 15% gratuity. You are not expected to tip. Many Parisians will round up and leave the extra Euro cents on the table.

With so much to see and do in Paris, you might be tempted to push to see as much as you can. There are museums, landmarks, attractions, and more all over the city. My first suggestion…don’t pack too much into one day. Chances are, you’re not going to see everything anyway on one trip. Do a little advance planning for places that are ‘must see’ on your list. Check a map to see what you can reasonably get to. My next suggestion…save some time to sit a sidewalk café for a morning latte or an early afternoon glass of wine. Watch people, soak up the atmosphere, relax. Paris is meant to be enjoyed…not hurried.