Tag: France

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Ay, France…I want to Go Back

Ay, France

We spent part of day in Ay. We should have spent more time there.

Why?

Only five minutes from Epernay and 30 minutes from Reims, Ay sits at the foot of the Reims mountain, among the slopes of a UNESCO World Heritage vineyard. For wine drinkers, these vineyards are classified as 100% Grand Cru. Special.

A thousand years old, Ay-Champagne is renowned for its vineyards since the Gallo-Roman era.

We went to visit La Cite du Champagne, a museum. Keep in mind, this isn’t a normal museum. During the guided tour, we learned about the history of the revolt of winemakers in 1910 and 1911.

They were revolting against the poor quality of champagne supplies brought in from other countries. Some of the larger houses were thought to be creating inferior Champagnes. A few smaller Champagne houses and growers got together and burned down big Champagne houses in 1911.

Yes…they burned several during these riotous times.

After a tour of the underground limestone caves, our visit commenced with tasting the Champagnes unique to Champagne Collet.

Wandering around town, we discovered more about Ay.

Rene Lalique, born here in 1860, is known as one the greatest jewelers of all times as well as a master glassmaker. His style is instantly recognizable, having a major influence on the Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements.

Female figures, flora, and fauna were his main sources of inspiration.

Perfumers sought out his designs for their bottles, cities asked for him to design and build their fountains, and car manufacturers wanted Lalique radiator caps.

His presence is felt throughout the town with statues, glass displays, and special street markers.

There is still more to Ay, France. We just haven’t discovered it yet.

Guess that means we will have to go back for another visit.

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Does Your Phone Work?

Does Your Phone Work?

You have options for using your phone when traveling to Europe. You can probably purchase an international phone plan from your carrier.

Or, you can do what we do.

We purchase a Sim Card from Orange. You can do this one of two ways. If you want to purchase one after you land and have the store put it in your phone, go to an Orange Store. They will take care of inserting the new Sim Card. They will then give you the phone number to use while in Europe.

Or, you can purchase one before you leave. If you do this, you need to register it with Orange. That will allow the number to work as your new phone number. You can insert this Sim Card into your phone while on the plane. That way, you will be ready to use your phone once you land. This is helpful if traveling with others or calling the hotel or apartment where you will be staying.

By doing this we avoid huge charges on our phone bill.

A couple of suggestions:

  • Be careful when removing your Sim Card from your phone. It does contain your entire phone life and information.
  • Take a very small resealable bag to place your Sim Card in.
  • Store this in a reliable spot while on vacation. You will need to put it back in before you land in the US.
  • Remember to register the Sim Card.
  • When you receive your new phone number, give that to everyone who may need to get ahold of you. Both in the US and in Europe.

For more information and for answers to questions you may have, go to the website for the Holiday Orange card.

https://topup.orange.com/faq-transpays/faq-about-orange-holiday-france-offer/
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Au Lapin Agile

Au Lapin Agile

Walking toward a museum in the Montmartre neighborhood of Paris, we noticed what we thought was a small restaurant. It was right across the street from Clos Montmartre, the vineyard nestled on the hills below the museum.

With the name Au Lapin Agile on the sign, we laughed at the translation. The agile rabbit…cute name.

Continuing on to the Museum of Montmartre, we noticed a painting by Andre Gill, named Au Lapin Agile. Same painting as the restaurant. Okay, time to learn more about this rabbit.

What we thought was a small restaurant is actually Paris’ oldest bar-cabaret and a Montmartre landmark. It’s been here since 1860. When it opened, its name was Au Rendez Vous des Voleurs, or at the rendez-vous of thieves. Apparently, Montmartre was not the best neighborhood at that time. Thieves would have been present.

Then, 20 years later, the name changed to the Cabaret des Assassins. Stories exist as to why the name changed. One says the owner’s son was murdered by a violent gang.

Another name change happened in 1875, as the artist Andre Gill painted a sign featuring a rabbit with a top hat jumping out of a large pan holding a bottle of wine. Supposedly, the painting was commissioned on the request of Madame Sals, the lady and cook of the house. Guess what she was known for?

Her rabbit stews.

The sign was displayed and the residents starting calling the cabaret Gills Rabbit or Le Lapin a Gill in French. This name changed into The Nimble Rabbit. He is, after all, gracefully jumping out of the pan holding the bottle of wine. No spilling or dropping the wine.

And, not landing in a pan of stew. Quite the play on words and on the painting.

Artists came here to discuss their works, debate the meaning of art, soak up the latest vibes, and gain inspiration for their own craft. Picasso, Modigliani, Van Gogh, Utrillo, and others frequented the cabaret.

Famous paintings lined the walls at one time. Some have been moved to art museums around the world. Still others remain.

As for the cabaret, don’t expect a residential version of Moulin Rouge. It’s not that type of cabaret. No tourist entertainment, no can-cans, no scantily clad beautiful women in feathers and diamonds, and no expensive, moderate champagne. This is a small, village house. Not a lot of room inside.

If you like folk music, poetry, and an authentic representation of vintage Montmartre life, this would be the place for you. It’s low key, genuine, full of history, and definitely retro. It’s truly an artistic cabaret.

If You Go: Au Lapin Agile is located at 22 rue des Saules, Paris. Hours are 9 PM to 1 AM, every day except Monday. They do serve Ruinart Champagne.

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Cafe Gourmand…The Best Way to Have Dessert

Desserts…Sure     

A couple of years ago we noticed a trend in Paris and in the Provence area. This trend appeared on menus and on menu boards. It was called Café Gourmand.

What is it?

When you order your Café Gourmand, you receive a coffee and three or four small dessert bites. All are attractive, all are delicious, and you get to taste more than just one dessert. What could be better?

The desserts are usually chosen by the chef and vary from day to day. Some chefs always have their signature item as one of the desserts. It gives chefs the opportunity to showcase their desserts and gives you a party for your final course.

Again…what could be better?

Most times the coffee is espresso and is brought with the desserts. This is different than ordering a specific dessert and then ordering espresso.

This year we ordered Café Gourmand in many restaurants. We were never disappointed and always surprised.

This is a trend I am adopting for my own dinner parties. Can’t wait to start…

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Colmar VRBO

When traveling and staying in an area for several days, we don’t usually stay in hotels. Instead, we opt for a vacation rental or an Airbnb.

We find we have more options this way. We have the ability to eat in if we want, more room to spread out, and we feel a little less like a tourist who is in town for a day or two. We’ve stayed in everything from a roomy estate to a small apartment.

We’ve had noise that couldn’t be shut out to places with absolute quiet. There have been floors that squeaked if you even thought about stepping on them. We’ve had tiny lifts to the fourth floor and places where we carried our luggage up 79 old, worn, stone steps. There have been views worthy of the best postcards. And, views of a brick wall.

In Colmar, France, we opted to rent a VRBO (vacation rental by owner) in the middle of town.

As usual, we read all the reviews, contacted the owner, and checked out Google street view before we booked. What did we find?

The apartment was exactly as billed. Spacious, more than enough room, great location, and positive interaction with the manager. One problem was rectified as soon as they could. The lift to the fourth floor was not working when we arrived. Four of us carried our luggage up five flights of stairs. The following day it was fixed and made life easier when we carried up some wine we purchased at a local winery.

This apartment was two stories. One bedroom and bath were on the first floor. Two bedrooms and a bathroom were on the second floor. Not a big deal…until you saw the stairs leading to the second floor. This curved staircase with its small steps was only a challenge taking our luggage to the second floor.

Location was great. We were just steps to restaurants, shops, the market, and local life. Our parking garage was only a 10-minute walk.

All in all, a great location and a wonderful apartment in Colmar.