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Notre Dame de Reims Cathedral

Notre Dame de Reims

It’s not uncommon for cities in France to have more than one church or even more than one cathedral. In fact, we sort of expect to see different sizes each with their own amazing features. It is always humbling when we realize the time frame in which they were built. We are not talking about the last 50 years, either.

Some have weathered well. Others, not so much. Some were casualties of a world war or some group fighting against another one. Still, some remain almost unblemished.

We visited tiny towns with huge churches whose steeples dominated their skylines. Other cities and their skylines were dotted with various sizes of steeples, turrets, and rising columns full of stained glass.

We had been visiting several churches and cathedrals in different cities and towns in the Champagne area of France. We didn’t need to travel far to find different architecture, yet similar looks.  

One, in particular, captured our hearts. Notre Dame de Reims…

This cathedral has been an important part of French history. It’s also classified by UNESCO as a world heritage site. But, that’s not all we loved about it.

First a little history…

  • It was built between 1211 and 1275
  • For 800 years it is where the kings of France were crowned, 25 of them
  • It is the second cathedral, after Chartes, with the largest number of statues and statuettes. If you want, you can count 2,300 of them.
  • The two impressive rose windows are imposing…and stunning as the light shines through them
  • There are original stained-glass windows from the 13th Century and ones from as recent as 2015
  • 13th Century Gothic architecture is mixed with more recent architecture due to bombings and destruction during both World Wars

Okay, many cathedrals have their own history. This one just happens to have more than others.

As are many cathedrals, this one was huge inside. How huge?

  • Total length of the cathedral is 500 feet. Notre Dame de Paris is 425 feet long.
  • Height in the nave is 125 feet
  • Towers are almost 270 feet tall
  • The outside spire is about 290 feet
  • Inside the total floor area is close to 22,000 square feet
  • Diameter of the west front Rose Window is 41 feet
  • Total square feet of windows is 12,800 square feet

No wonder it took us over an hour just to walk around and admire the spectacular interior.

Some favorites during our visit…

  • Three stained glass windows in the axial chapel that were produced in 1974 by Marc Chagall
  • The first Chagall window includes the theme of the Tree of Jesse
  • The central Chagall window is the sacrifice of Isaac
  • The right Chagall window includes some of the great times in Reims history, including the baptism of Clovis and the coronation of Saint Louis and Charles VII
  • We often see one magnificent rose window. Here, there are two. Looking up, each one did not seem to be over 40 feet across.
  • Light streaming in through all the windows showcased this magnificent cathedral, giving us a sense of peace

If you find yourself in or near Reims, France, this is definitely worth the time to visit. Its beauty is hard to match.

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Review of VRBO in Pocancy, France

Pocancy, France VRBO Review

For the second week of a trip to France, we stayed in the Champagne region. We decided to rent a place in a small town.

Small was definitely the operative word.

Reading the reviews, several people mentioned a bakery nearby and a patisserie fairly close. Great. Since we liked the look of the place, the area, and the chance to stay in a rural area, we choose the place in Pocancy. Sure, it had five bedrooms and there were only four of us. Never mind it had enough room for 20 of our closest friends. We decide to go for it.

What did we find?

The place was huge. Located behind a gated, stone wall on two acres, this estate was impressive in its size. The pool was heated. Birds and squirrels provided outdoor entertainment. Walls, 18 inches thick, blocked out any and all noise. A rock band could have played a concert on the street just outside the estate and we would have never heard it.

This wasn’t a new place. It had been there a long time. The grounds were well kept, and the inside was clean and neat. They had an issue with cell phone service and slllooowww wi-fi. But, what do you expect with thick walls in the middle of nowhere?

The kitchen was well equipped. Most importantly, there were plenty of wine glasses for us to taste champagnes from our trips to different Champagne houses.

Whoever wrote about the patisserie and bakery being close did not exactly match our idea of close. We like to walk to get our morning pastries and bring them back to enjoy with coffee on the patio. In this case, close was 15 kilometers away. Not exactly walking distance.

And, the small town? It was so small, we never did see any other people coming or going. Houses were well attended with colorful flowers surrounding every front door. Somebody must live there. We just never saw them.

Location was great as it took almost no time to get to a major road for day trips to Reims, Epernay, Troyes, Hautvillers, and Ay.

All in all, this was a great place on several levels. We experienced a very small town, we relaxed, and we had never stayed in a place quite like this.

Next time…perhaps closer to a patisserie and a market.

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I Need to Bring My…

Interesting Items to Bring With You

Did you know these are allowed by TSA?

Live coral and live fish? Sure. They have to be inspected by TSA, but you can bring them onboard.

How about your favorite coffee maker? It is carry-on friendly.

Your desktop computer can come with you as well. It has to go through the screening machines.

Bring your artificial skeleton bones only after you let TSA know they aren’t real.

Your bowling ball or bocce balls can be packed into your carry-on bag.

If you went to the beach and have to bring some sand home, it can be in your carry-on bag. Just don’t let it spill.

Same goes for rocks, as long as they aren’t from a National Park.

Do you need to bring your cymbals with you? Depending on the size of musical instruments, they may need their own seat. Cymbals should be okay to put in the overhead bin.

Don’t forget your selfie stick. It is allowed.

Thoughts?

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Forks, Corks, and Brews Official Site Launched

forkscorksandbrews.com

712-898-7750 – Tel

kitchen@forkscorksandbrews.com

For Immediate Release                                           

Milestone for Forks Corks and Brews

Business Officially Launches

Poway, CA

January 27, 2020

Forks, Corks, and Brews officially launches their online presence today. Co-founders Jackie and Wendy VanHatten encourage and educate their readers by sharing recipes, kitchen secrets, and wine and beer pairings. They also investigate San Diego’s coffee.

Creating real food for the busy household that likes to entertain is their main focus. However, food quality, efficiency, and sustainability are key to preparing their cuisine. VanHatten says efficiency in the kitchen is the secret for busy families. “Everyone is busy. That doesn’t mean quality meals get sacrificed. We want our kids to know how to shop for sustainable ingredients and then cook a tasty meal using those ingredients.”

As busy women, Jackie and Wendy are the go-to source for cooking with real, wholesome food. Follow along for their simple recipes, useful kitchen suggestions, and straight-talk gadget reviews.

Sign up and subscribe for the latest recipes, coffee trends, exclusive wine talk, and beer buzz. Learn from their experience in the kitchen as their photographer highlights the cooking process and the finished dish.

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I’m Ready to Go…I Think

First Time Abroad

If one of your resolutions for the new year include traveling abroad…that’s fantastic.

If this is the first time…that’s also fantastic. I’m sure you have read all the tips about what to pack, what to take in your carryon bag, when to book, and more.

In case you need a few more tips to remember…check out these useful suggestions.

Remember the outlets in Europe are different than here in the US. Check to see what country uses what types of plugs. Get the right one and take it with you if you want to use your own hairdryer, phone charger, etc.

Speaking of hairdryers, check the website of the hotel or vacation rental where you will be staying. Most times, there is one included in the room or apartment. You could save a bunch of room in your suitcase if you didn’t have to pack a bulky hairdryer.

Let your bank and credit card companies know you will be traveling. Also let them know the dates and places. No sense having a card declined because you are no longer in the US.

Take some cash with you. ATMs will often charge a hefty fee to take out cash. Also, know which banks and which machines are best to use for your bank.

Remember to dress accordingly in the country where you will be. Avoid wearing shirts with sayings that could be taken the wrong way, or clothes that look like they were made for working out. In the US we tend to wear our sneakers, sweatshirts, and yoga pants everywhere. That is not the case in many European countries.

Noise cancelling headphones are your friend on a long flight. Just remember to remove them when the flight attendant is talking to you.

Learn a few local phrases. Especially learn please and thank you. Even if the shop owner or hotel person speaks English, it’s still appreciated if you use their language.

Check your phone plan before you go. You may be able to use your phone, or it may cost too much. Check out something like an Orange card before you go. Remember to use WiFi at the hotel or apartment to save on usage.

Try the local foods. Eat at the same time the locals do. Why? Both will give you a much better experience in that country. You didn’t come all the way to Italy to eat a fast food burger, did you? I hope not.

Understand about tipping. This varies from country to country. It may be as simple as looking at your bill.

Be aware of your surroundings. Space may be limited in a restaurant or on a bus. Don’t take up more space than you need. The same goes for how loud you talk. Many countries speak quieter than you may be used to. Pay attention and try to follow their lead.

For more tips, check back regularly to read the latest from TSA, the State Department, and fellow travelers. Sign up for my website at https://.www.travelsandescapes.net to follow me wherever I go. Have fun traveling.

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Should I Travel There?

When I travel I check the STEP (Smart Traveler Enrollment Program) for any alerts pertaining to the countries I am visiting. I also register my trip with STEP.

The following is an email I received lately about travel in Italy.

STEP Notifications  Wed, Jan 15, 1:05 PM (18 hours ago)
to ACS_ITALY

Exercise increased caution in Italy due to terrorism.

Terrorist groups continue plotting possible attacks in Italy. Terrorists may attack with little or no warning, targeting tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, local government facilities, hotels, clubs, restaurants, places of worship, parks, major sporting and cultural events, educational institutions, airports, and other public areas.

Read the Safety and Security section on the country information page.

If you decide to travel to Italy:

  • Be aware of your surroundings when traveling to tourist locations and crowded public venues.
  • Follow the instructions of local authorities.
  • Monitor local media for breaking events and adjust your plans based on new information.
  • Enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
  • Follow the Department of State on Facebook and Twitter.
  • Review the Crime and Safety Reports for Italy.
  • Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the Traveler’s Checklist.

Does this mean I would not travel to Italy? Not necessarily. It does mean there are extra things to watch out for when traveling there.

Have you had any experience with STEP?

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Troyes…City of Churches

Troyes, France

Troyes is a renaissance city in the south part of the Champagne region. Several things grabbed our attention as we first read about the city and then as we wandered along the streets.

The half-timbered houses are not the typical white with brown timbers. These are multi-colored houses. There was a fire in 1524, which destroyed almost the entire city. When the houses were rebuilt, colors were used on the houses and buildings. It makes for a pretty historic center.

Then there are the cathedrals. Eleven of them. That’s right…11 cathedrals in one city. We had time to visit five. Each one is special. Each one has its own special windows and features. I have never seen so much stained glass. I have never seen such a variety of stained-glass windows.

The Troyes Cathedral was started in the 13th century and completed over 400 years later. You might think this would make for a jumbled mess of design. It doesn’t. It is entirely Gothic throughout. This is considered one of the most beautiful churches in all of Europe.

Walking into the spacious nave, we could only stand and stare. Light engulfed us as it streamed in through more than 1,500 square meters of stained glass. That is over 16,000 square feet. That’s a lot of stained glass.

Some of these windows date back to the 1200s.

There are three huge rose windows, each over 30 feet across. We often see one impressive one. But, three? They were all designed by Martin Chambiges, a renaissance architect. So many colors and light. As I kept looking at one of the windows, I felt like I could be in a kaleidoscope. The colors changed, the shapes jumped out at me, and the light continued to radiate.

Eglise Sainte-Madeleine is probably the oldest church in Troyes. Some say it is the most beautiful.

Construction dates from 1120, being rebuilt around 1200 in a Gothic style. The apse and choir were renovated around 1500 in a more flamboyant Gothic style. The square Renaissance looking tower was added in 1525.

One of the most impressive parts is its famous rood screen. A rood screen is an elevated stone gallery between the nave and the choir. It has room for a choral group or officiating priests. This was originally wooden. Replaced with a stone one, it has the look of lace. And, it did look like lace. It was hard to believe it was stone. Only about a dozen religious buildings in France still have a rood screen.

In addition, the apse’s stained-glass windows are colorful story-telling examples. The Tree of Jesse, The Genesis, and The Pearls of Saint Eloi are some of the best we have seen. Unlike others, the stories presented are easy to follow.

Don’t let the outside fool you into thinking the inside will be plain. Not the case.

The Basilica of Saint Urbain was commissioned by the 13th century Pope Urbain IV, who was born in Troyes. He had it built on the site where his shoemaker father had his workshop.

This one includes stained glass windows from the 13th century and a large amount of historic art.

There are more…you will just have to see them for yourself.

Check out https://travelsandescapes.net/ for articles on stained glass.

If You Go: Troyes is located about two hours southeast of Paris.

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Stained Glass Windows

Did you know:

  • The oldest surviving complete stained glass window is found in the Augsburg Cathedral in Germany. It was constructed in the 11th century and was part of a project to make the windows larger and more beautiful.
  • It was during the medieval period that stained glass windows became a primary way to teach the illiterate laity the many stories of the Bible.
  • As technology improved over time, stained glass windows grew larger and larger, becoming extremely complicated and full of all kinds of symbolism.
  • Gothic windows were generally tall and spear-, wheel-, or rose-shaped. A good example of Gothic stained glass windows are those of the Notre Dame chapel, which holds one of the largest rose shaped windows in the world.
  • Between the Renaissance and the mid-19th century stained glass windows fell from favor.
  • John La Farge and Louis Comfort Tiffany were makers of stained glass during the Art Nouveau period, and created opalescent, confetti, drapery, and ridged glass. The windows of Louis Comfort Tiffany, Marc Chagall, and Frank Lloyd Wright are fine examples of modern stained glass windows. This revival was cut short by the depression of the 1930’s and 1940’s, which was then followed by WWII.
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Verdun…History Up Close

Battle of Verdun

The Battle of Verdun started on February 21, 1916. It ended on December 16, 1916.

That’s 300 days and 300 nights of combat without a break.

This was the “War to End All Wars.”

However…There were over 300,000 dead and missing and 400,000 French and German soldiers wounded. The Battle of Verdun was a frontal assault, the most murderous in history. Over 65 million artillery shells were fired by both sides. Nine villages were completely destroyed.

In a few words, that summarizes the entire World War I.

What happened? The planned German attack on Verdun was supposed to crush and bleed France to death. France had 20 major forts and 40 smaller ones around Verdun. These protected the eastern border of France and Germany was going to overtake the entire border. It was supposed to be quick and go as planned by the Germans.

About 140,000 German troops started the attack, supported by artillery guns that fired 2,500,000 shells. On February 21, 1916, 1,000 German artillery guns fired on a six-mile stretch of the French front.

Flame throwers were used for the first time to help the Germans advance the eight miles. By February 25, they had captured over 10,000 French prisoners.

It didn’t end there…

The French fought back. French officers organized a motorized supply chain on a scale never seen or used before. They transported 90,000 soldiers, 6,000 vehicles, and 25,000 tons of supplies to the front via a 37-mile dirt road.

Perhaps, like me, you learned all this in school. Again, perhaps like me, those were just facts and figures to be memorized and then either forgotten or never thought of in real life.

We visited this part of France and some of the battlefields of Verdun. It brought reality to us.

Approaching from the east, we drove through peaceful countryside. Before reaching any of the monuments, acres of green fields, dense forests, hills, and valleys everything seemed so calm and serene. Farmland, animals grazing, and tree trunks all hiding remnants of an ugly war so many years ago.

Then, we noticed things differently. The small hills and craters were not what they seemed at first. These are leftover remnants of the tens of millions of artillery shells fired here. As we came closer to the battlefield areas, we could see what had happened here. The green, moss covered mounds are really shell craters left when artillery shells exploded. The valleys are where battles took place. These valleys, actually trenches used for fighting, are small and terrifyingly close to each other.

We visited Fort de Douaumont, a hilltop fort constructed in 1885 to house France’s strategic command center. German troops even used it at various times. Soldiers were protected here. A thick layer of sand muffled explosions and the concrete walls were seven feet thick.

During the climb to the bombed-out area above the Fort, a light rain started. Somehow, this seemed appropriate. Once at the top, strong winds buffeted us around as we walked through the craters and past the round, iron structures which held the machine gun turrets. Guns could rise up out of these structures and turn slowly, firing on the enemy. The enemy never had a chance.

Looking out over the craters, past the gun turrets, and into the trenches, it was impossible to imagine fighting here. It’s something we will never forget.

Leaving the fort area, we visited the National Cemetery with more than 16,000 graves. It’s beautiful and sobering, like national cemeteries are.

Overlooking the cemetery is the Douaumont Ossuary, a memorial holding the unidentified remains of more than 100,000 soldiers. Both French and German are recognized.

A central chapel offers a place to reflect. Massive hallways, 150 feet long, on either side of the center area are bathed in orange light. Twenty-two alcoves house the tombs that represent the 46 sectors of the Battle of Verdun. Around 4,000 names of fallen soldiers are inscribed on the walls and ceiling.

The ossuary’s 150-foot tower rises above the countryside, the cemetery, and the battlefields. All of it brought history back to us, over 100 years later.

Again…almost impossible to grasp the severity of being here 300 days and nights, fighting for your life as your buddy next to you dies.

This was a sobering visit, yet an important piece of history to see in person. I would recommend visiting here, even if you are not a history buff.

If You Go: Verdun is about 2 ½ hours east of Paris’ Charles De Gaulle airport.

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Where Are You Going?

It’s 2020…Where Are You Going?

With the new year just beginning, have you thought about your travel plans? Are you staying local or going somewhere you have never been before?

Are you returning to a favorite place? Or, are you undecided?

We are returning to Provence and Nice, France this year. Why? Because we like the food, wine, history, and culture. Will we travel somewhere new as well? Yep. There are many cities and areas of Provence we haven’t explored.

Whatever you do and wherever you go in 2020, have a great time and a safe trip.

Stay tuned for tips and ideas on how to make your travel experience the best.