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Cantina Do Mori…Authentic Venice

When in Venice…Cantina Do Mori

It’s a classic part of Venice.

No chairs…just a few stools. No tables…just a long wooden bar and some upturned wine barrels.  Dozens of antique copper pots hang from the dark, wooden ceiling.

Tour groups wander in…but don’t stay for even one glass. Locals stop at the same time each day…and the bartender never asks what they want. He just serves them.

Warm and cozy, this original bacaro has been catering to the workers of the Rialto Market, tourists, and even supposedly Casanova since 1462. Like so many things in Venice, it’s not easy to find. Even with a map, it’s a challenge. It’s tucked in an alley way between Ruga Vecchia, San Giovanni, and Calle Arco. Got that?

It’s definitely worth double checking the alleyways to find it. Or, stop and ask a shop keeper. You may get directions.

We were lucky and found Cantina Do Mori one morning. The only people in the cantina was a group of older, local men gathered around their morning glass of vino.

We watched as the bartender poured each of them their drink without asking what they wanted. He poured mostly water into one guy’s glass and topped it off with a little wine. The guy smiled.

Their conversation was lively amongst themselves. Pretty soon they welcomed us into their group. It didn’t really matter that our Italian was barely passable, and their English was almost non-existent. We all still had a great conversation.

Later in the afternoon we wandered back for some cicchetti, crostini, and salami to have with the bartender’s choice of wine. I had a delightful prosecco which complimented my snacks. Others had one of the tramezzini, crustless, oversized sandwiches, and a glass of red wine.

Guess what? We met the same group of men from that morning, in for their afternoon glass. Of course they remembered us and chatted away in Italian. We still aren’t sure what they were talking about.

But, that’s okay.

IF YOU Go: Cantina Do Mori is located at Calle dei Do Mori, 429 San Polo Venezia.

You can check out other parts of Italy https://travelsandescapes.net/.

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Freixenet, Spanish Cava

Freixenet, a Spanish Cava, is known as a pioneer in many ways. They were the first to use black and yellow bottles and the first to use French methods to create their Cava. Currently, their botanists manage and develop fully sustainable vineyards.

In 1889 Pedro Ferrer married Dolores Sala, whose family had been making wine since 1861. At that time, they decided to convert from still wine to making sparkling wine. Their first bottle was released in 1914.

The name Freixenet comes from Pedro’s nickname of El Freixenet, named after his family’s ranch La Freixenet. It means ash tree grove in Catalan.

History wasn’t kind and their success was not an easy road.

America’s flirtation with prohibition stalled the blooming export market for their Cava. Later, the Spanish Civil War took the lives of Pedro and his eldest son, both captured and never seen again. Yet, despite the tragedy and setbacks, Dolores Ferrer and her three surviving daughters resurrected the company.

In 1957 Dolores handed the reins to her son, José Ferrer who initiated progressive (and first-ever in Spain) techniques such as pressing grapes pneumatically, using refrigerated tanks to control fermentation, and proprietary yeast cultivation. In the 1970’s he introduced, against the advice of his peers, the black bottle Cordon Negro. 

During our visit to Freixenet, we learned more of their history.

Who drinks the most Cava?  Germany, followed by the United States.

The yeast Dolores identified decades ago is the most suited to making quality Cava. Guess what? It still survives. The winery dedicates an entire lab and warehouse-sized facility to the production of this yeast.

Gloria Ferrer, wife of Jose Ferrer, owns one of the world’s largest glass flute collections. She has over 2,000 individual flutes from all over the world. She is also the namesake for their California-based sparkling wine company, Gloria Ferrer.

There are three main grapes in Cava. Macabeo, paralleda, and xarel-lo. Producers are allowed to use nine grapes including pinot noir, chardonnay, monastrell, grenache, malvasia, and trepat.

Cava is made in the same way Champagne is made, with secondary fermentation occurring in the bottle. Even though the methods are the same, the taste profiles are noticeably different.

Visiting Freixenet is similar to visiting Champagne houses, yet at the same time quite different.

Reservations must be made in advance. Our tour started with a brief history of Freixenet and then we were led down several flights of stairs. At each level we noticed a decidedly cooler temperature. In all, we descended 20 meters.

Once at the bottom, we boarded a tram to continue our tour. Riding through the narrow winding caves lined with dusty bottles of Cava, it was clear this is a huge operation. Every where we looked were stacks and stacks of bottles.

Every so often we would see broken bottles on the floor. Our host explained that some bottles just explode before they are ready. I can’t imagine what that must sound like.

Our tram took us underground past barrels and production, arriving back to street level. The best part was yet to come…tasting four different types of Cava. A great end to a wonderful day.

If you are in the Barcelona area and are interested in Cava, this tour is well worth taking. For times and reservations, check out https://www.freixenet.es/en/wine-tourism/freixenet-wineries/visit-the-wineries.

If You Go: Freixenet is located at  Plaça Joan Sala, 2, 08770 Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, Barcelona, Spain. We took the train from Barcelona, about a two-hour ride. It’s an easy side trip.

Find out more exiting places to experience wine at https://travelsandescapes.net/

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The Palace Hotel, San Francisco

When in San Francisco, the Palace Hotel has always been a favorite of mine. Staying…eating…wandering around to look at the impressive features…it’s all good.

Since 1875 the Palace Hotel has been catering to travelers from all over the country, business titans, the social elite, and dignitaries looking for the best of the best in hotels. With such modern technological advancements for its time, the Palace offered a telegraph on every floor, private baths, and five rising rooms.

The largest hotel in the world at that time, it was a true innovator in luxury accommodations.

No wonder it quickly became ‘the place’ to stay.

Then came the earthquake of 1906 and in the fires that accompanied it, the Palace Hotel was destroyed. All the marble, crystal chandeliers, and opulence were reduced to ruble. Yet, three years later the new Palace opened its doors, using what they found in that ruble and adding new spectacular acquisitions…grander than before the fires.

Fast forward to 2015 when the latest renovations were complete. The old…the new…the newest, all blend together as the fresh design pairs with timeless elegance. 

So, what’s the Palace Hotel like now?

One area, the Garden Court, is a San Francisco monument and the crown jewel of the hotel. Sit down, have a glass of wine or a cup of coffee, and look around. Really look at everything. The massiveness of the Italian marble columns might first catch your eye. But, the stained glass ceiling will certainly cause you to sit and stare. The 7 million dollar price tag hardly seems enough. Austrian crystal chandeliers positioned throughout sparkle as the light comes through the stained glass. It’s no wonder the entire room, 110 feet long and 85 feet wide, has seen its share of engagements, celebrations, and parties for literally over a hundred years. Close your eyes and you can almost see a Prince, a President, or a Silicon Valley Techie entertaining their guests here.

Hungry? What better place to have lunch, or tea, or Sunday brunch? In this era of using organic and locally sourced ingredients, the chefs here are no different. You will find 80% of the food offered is local, sustainable, and farm fresh. History even manages to find its way into your lunch.

Ever had Green Goddess dressing? In 1923 this dressing was first served at a Palace dinner honoring actor George Arliss. Did you know their famous crab salad has been on the menu since 1909? Same recipe…new crab!

When staying here, you’ll take one of those rising rooms, now known as elevators, to your floor. Check out the wide hallways; wider than in your average hotel. Notice the door knobs on the dark doors. Both are elegant. Even though the doors have been retrofitted for a keyless entry, the knobs are from 1909. They feel substantial in your hand. Finally, pay attention to the doors…solid wood and heavy. Again, from 1909.

Entering your room, you’ll notice the room seems spacious. The ceilings are 11 feet, offering a sense of grand size. No wonder The Palace Hotel was and continues to be the premier place to stay.

Want to see another treasure within the hotel? Head to the Pied Piper for a drink and look at the masterpiece above the bar. This Pied Piper painting was commissioned from Maxfield Parish in 1909 for $6,000. It represents the tale of the Pied Piper…with a twist. Parish painted himself as the Pied Piper and some of the 27 expressive faces include those of his wife, his mistress, his sons, and more. What a guy!

Memories of a grand, historic era combined with technology of today…the Palace Hotel offers comfort and style to globe-trotting travelers, families with children, cutting edge business people, and those looking for a magical place to reconnect. Which one are you?

Your room is ready…

If You Go: The Palace Hotel is located at 2 New Montgomery Street in San Francisco.

Find more California escapes at https://travelsandescapes.net/category/escapes/california/

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Visit Morro Bay and California’s Central Coast

If you landed in a seaside village with a mild Mediterranean climate and heard the term “Gibraltar of the Pacific”, would you have any idea where you were? Would it help if you saw a 576-foot volcanic plug sitting at the mouth of the harbor, a harbor the US Coast Guard regards as one of the most dangerous harbors in the nation? Here’s a hint. You’re about to visit the Central California coast. Morro Bay, to be exact.

Morro Rock, the volcanic plug, was named by Juan Cabrillo during his voyage in 1542. He called it El Moro, supposedly as it reminded him of the Moor’s turbans. It was changed to Morro, meaning pebble, crown, or nose. This 22 or 23 million year old rock isn’t alone along this coast. It’s one of Nine Sisters of rocks, formed by volcanic activity and extending form Morro Bay to San Luis Obispo.

While the rock is impressive and easy to see why it’s compared to Gibraltar, there’s more to experience here than just sitting at a waterfront patio, sipping wine from a nearby winery, and watching dozens of otters play in the bay. Although, that’s not a bad way to spend a couple of hours. This is the central California coast where Morro Bay is just one of many seaside towns and villages.

For some exercise, leave your car and walk to Morro Rock. No longer open for climbing, this massive rock becomes even more massive the closer you get. Peregrine Falcons and about 250 other species of birds call it home. From here, the giant waves hitting the seawall are spectacular. Prepare to get sprayed. Rent a kayak or paddle board and explore the bay up close. Sea lions and otters will keep you company as they play alongside you.

Looking for day trips along the central coast of California? Spend time in the Morro Bay State Park, just a few minutes from the center of Morro Bay. Plenty of trails to walk, birds to watch at the Heron Rookery Natural Preserve, interactive exhibits at the Museum of Natural History, and from November to February the roosting Monarch Butterflies are here. With plenty of sunshine, don’t forget your sunscreen.

Want to wander a little further? A few minutes north is the beach town of Cayucos, which was named the best beach town in California by a popular travel magazine. Watch the waves, take a walk on the California Coastal Trail, or take a hike up to Black Hill.

Or, travel just 30 minutes north to San Simeon and visit the Hearst Castle. This is truly a museum, but not like any other museum you’ve ever experienced. The legendary William Randolph Hearst built and occupied this grand residence, the “Enchanted Hill”, overlooking the ocean and acres below it. Advance tickets are a must, but definitely worth it.

If you’re looking for award-winning wines to taste, head inland to Paso Robles. With over 200 wineries, many boutique and small family owned ones, the Paso blends of Bordeaux, Rhone, and Zinfandel varietals, are sure to please your palette. The proximity to the Pacific Ocean, numerous canyons and hills, a variety of microclimates all combine to create the perfect region for growing grapes. I bet you find some new favorites.

Wherever your day trip was, when it’s finished, head back to Morro Bay for dinner by the bay. Enjoy ocean-to-table seafood, wine from the Paso area, the cool ocean breezes after a warm day inland, and then bring your day to a close by watching the sun slip into the Pacific next to Morro Rock. Ships in the bay appear to be highlighted in a gold light and depending on the time of year, the sky glows pinkish or orange. Morro Rock’s reflection changes from minute to minute. Your camera will work overtime.

If You Go: Morro Bay is located 12 miles northwest of San Luis Obispo, California on California Highway 1. More trips can be found at https://travelsandescapes.net/

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The Enchanted Hill

Do you remember the movie, ‘Citizen Kane’? Do you know what it has in common with The Enchanted Hill?

Citizen Kane, the movie, and the hilltop structure known as The Enchanted Hill in San Simeon, California have much in common. The first is supposedly based on the life of American newspaper magnate, William Randolph Hearst and has been labeled the greatest film ever made. However, Hearst prohibited mention of the film in any of his newspapers.

The Enchanted Hill is what Hearst called his home with its magnificent gardens and exotic zoo. Sitting high above the Pacific Ocean, this Mediterranean style country house features guest cottages each named for its view, endless gardens, over-sized swimming pools, and countless terraces. The zoo is long gone but zebras and other critters still roam around the property mixed in with the cattle.

Check out the Neptune Pool, supposedly rebuilt three times before Hearst was completely satisfied with it. Looking at it today…it was worth all that tinkering. Marble statues of nymphs and swans around the pool were carved by French sculptor Charles Cassou. Holding 345,000 gallons of water, this pool was heated year-round until the 1970’s. Crystal clear it is still filtered using a sand filtering system.

Slightly smaller at only 205,000 gallons the Roman Pool, apparently styled after the Roman Baths, is decorated from floor to ceiling with one-inch mosaic tiles. Blue and orange glass tiles alternate with clear ones having fused gold inside. Looking up at the roof and dome, you see more mosaics…this time midnight blue ones interspersed with stars. Eight marble statues complete the setting. ‘Wow’ is the only word you will be able to utter when you round the corner. 

Back outside, saunter along the Esplanade walkway connecting gardens with the rest of the buildings. Every direction you look provides visual pleasures. Roses, flowering annuals, boxwood hedges, citrus trees, and palms mix with 19th and 20th century statues, ancient sarcophagi, fountains, and the Sekhmet sculptures, four Egyptian pieces over three thousand years old. Stop for a minute on the Main Terrace and look around. Endless views of the Pacific Ocean are to your south and the Santa Lucia Mountains are to the north. In the background you will hear the sound of water, an important effect in Mediterranean gardens.

Hearst inherited the 250,000 acre working cattle ranch from his mother and called it “Camp Hill”, a wilderness place for family members and friends to rough it on camping trips. Keep in mind roughing it meant accommodations included elaborate arrangements, separate sleeping quarters, and dining tents. At one point Hearst decided camping out in the open was not what he wanted. Enter famed San Francisco architect Julia Morgan who worked with Hearst to build his dream home…and it ended up as one of the world’s greatest showplaces. Thus the name…The Enchanted Hill.

By 1947 La Cuesta Encantada was completed. Blending the architectural styles of a Spanish cathedral and Mediterranean Revival style houses and utilizing the surrounding California land, this was a creation to behold. After all, who would expect to see this grand structure rising high on the hills complete with grazing cattle and a zoo with zebra to polar bears?

Engineering and architectural features are everywhere.  A gravity-based water delivery system, private cinema with rare books lining the shelves, 56 bedrooms, ceilings imported from all over the world, an indoor pool to delight even the non-swimmers, hidden terraces, doors to secret hallways, an amazing wine cellar, and a kitchen with some pretty fascinating appliances are only a few surprises.

This is no longer just a place for celebrities and famous guests to come and enjoy. It is a palace in every sense of the imagination.

If you go: Hearst Castle is located in the hills at San Simeon, on California Highway 1, about halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. Advanced reservations are highly recommended, especially during the summer months. Check out www.hearstcastle.com or call 800-444-4445.

Information about other castles and places to visit can be found /https://travelsandescapes.net/

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Visit Amboy Crater in California

Want to visit an extinct volcano? Ever heard of Amboy Crater in California? You can visit Amboy Crater, California and climb to its rim.

Amboy Crater is an extinct North American cinder cone type of  volcano, located in one of the youngest volcanic fields in the US. It rises above a 27 square mile lava field in southern California . This 250-foot-high crater is 1,500 feet in diameter.

Located in the Barstow-Bristol trough, a conspicuous west-northwest trending physiographic feature, this field was created by at least four distinct periods of eruptions, resulting in a group of volcanic cinder cones. The most recent eruption of Amboy Crater was about 10,000 years ago.

A visit to Amboy Crater will offer one of the best examples in the Mojave Desert of a volcanic cinder cone. It is situated in one of the youngest volcanic fields in the United States.

 A footpath leads to the top of the cone of Amboy Crater, where you can get a good view of the surrounding area. The hike to the Crater and back can take 2-3 hours. Late January through March are good times to see the wildflowers. Plus, it’s a whole lot cooler to visit Amboy Crater then.

Designated a National Natural Landmark in 1973, Amboy Crater was recognized for its visual and geological significance. Although Amboy Crater is not unique, it is an excellent example of a very symmetrical volcanic cinder cone.

The inside of the 250′ high crater contains two lava dams. Behind these, are some small lava lakes. Not what you think of when you hear the word lake, these flat places are covered with light colored clay, creating the impression of miniature “dry lakes.” There is a breach on the west side of the crater where basaltic lava poured out over a vast area. Beyond the crater lies 24 square miles of lava flow containing such features as lava lakes, collapsed lava tubes and sinks, spatter cones, and massive flows of basalt.

The scenic and solitary Amboy Crater was a popular sight and stop for travelers on US Route 66 before Interstate 40 was completed in 1973. Amboy Crater was one of few extinct volcanoes along the entire route, so travelers from the 1920s through the 1960s could boast that they had climbed a real volcano. Visits decreased after Interstate 40 opened, but have increased in recent years with the tourism interest in “old Route 66.”

The Federal Bureau of Land Management recommends using the Western Cone Trail if you are interested in reaching the volcano peak’s rim. Be prepared…this is a steep and rocky trail. Start at the Amboy Crater day use parking area, which provides shaded and open picnic tables and public restrooms. Regular desert precautions apply here. Be alert for rattlesnakes and old military explosives. Wear a hat, sunscreen, sturdy shoes, and carry abundant drinking water. If you think you have enough water…take some more.

Educational and organized groups are advised to contact the Bureau before heading out to Amboy Crater.

To get to the trailhead: From Barstow, take Interstate 40 west to exit 50. Turn right on Crucero Road and make an immediate left onto Route 66. Take route 66 for 26 miles to the crater.

Other interesting trips can be found here https://travelsandescapes.net/