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Parisienne in Chicago

A short while ago I was asked to review “A Parisienne in Chicago” by Madame Leon Grandin. Written in 1894, this has been translated and an introduction written by Mary Beth Raycraft in 2010.

Madame Grandin gives her Impressions of the World’s Columbian Exposition. More than that she tells about life and travels as she and her sculptor husband cross the Atlantic from Paris to New York.
Not a true “travel” book, Madame Grandin certainly makes one see how it was to travel during 1893. Chicago as you’ve never experienced it…she writes in great detail how life and travels were in the “windy city”. Here are some questions from an interview with Mary Beth Raycraft.

Why did you choose this book to translate?

My friend and former colleague, Arn Lewis, recommended that I consider a translation of Madame Grandin’s account. Arn is a specialist in Chicago history and architecture and found her reactions to the city very interesting. From the first time I opened her book in a Paris library, I was immediately taken with her lively tone and spirited reactions to American life.

When you investigated her life how did you know where to start?

Since she had published her book under her married name, I started by searching for information about her husband, the French sculptor Léon Grandin. He had attended the prestigious École des beaux-arts in Paris, and was quite well-known in the artistic community. After a circuitous path, I finally located his marriage certificate which provided important information about his wife. She was twenty years old at the time of their marriage in 1884 and employed as an elementary school teacher. Her full name was finally revealed: Marie Léonie Lédier.

When in France, did you see any remains of life as Madame Grandin described it? Not physically of course, but in theory or in flavor.

Madame Grandin was born and lived in the Montparnasse quarter. Although this neighborhood has changed quite a bit since the late nineteenth century, there are still some vestiges of the past. For example, one of the sculpture workshops where Léon Grandin worked in Montparnasse is now the home of the Musée Bourdelle. It is one Paris’ smaller museums and displays a great collection of sculpture and paintings in a charming, nineteenth-century setting.

Did you have any of the same feelings Madame Grandin portrayed in her book…about France, Paris, New York or Chicago? Is or was there a cultural difference for women?

Reading Madame Grandin’s criticisms of American women’s neglect of their domestic duties made me smile and think of some of my French women friends today. How do they find time to look fashionable, create a stylish home with that certain “je ne sais quoi,” read interesting books, and still manage to get a nice roasted chicken on the table for dinner? It seems that French women today just like Madame Grandin in the late nineteenth century, take pride in achieving a balanced life and along with that comes a well-organized home.

In terms of city life, although Paris, Chicago, and New York are all very international cities today, Paris still retains many of its quaint, old neighborhoods. Strolling through the village-life ambiance of those streets still creates a strong contrast to the more modern quarters of American cities.

How did traveling help you relate to her story?

Going back and forth between the U.S. and France to do research trips enabled me to make some of the same cultural comparisons as Madame Grandin. Also, talking to Parisians about her story allowed me to see how interested the French are in their history and in intercultural connections with America.

Our society travels so easily today between Europe and the US. How difficult do you think it was in her time to do this type of travel? Do you think it was made easier due to her husband’s position?

Madame Grandin’s lengthy description of the transatlantic crossing from Le Havre to New York emphasizes both the pleasant and unpleasant aspects of overseas travel at the time. Though their French ship, La Touraine, offered luxurious salons and stimulating intercultural conversation, many passengers suffered from seasickness. The food was not very tasty and the second class cabin where the Grandins stayed was very small.

After landing in New York and spending a few weeks there with relatives, they took the train to Chicago via Niagara Falls. Although Madame Grandin found American trains more comfortable than their French counterparts, she disliked the sleeping cars which did not give her enough privacy.

Once in Chicago, the fact that her husband was an important sculptor working on a project for the Exposition definitely helped her meet people in the artistic community, including Lydia Hess and Marie Gélon Cameron who were both instructors at the Art Institute of Chicago.

Do you think today’s young French women would travel with such open eyes and curiosity as Madame Grandin traveled?

I think that both French women and men are, in general, very enthusiastic and open-minded travelers. They are genuinely curious about other cultures and when they vacation, always enjoy plunging into the native culture and learning as much as possible.

Do you think today’s young American women would travel to France with such open eyes and curiosity?

Similarly, I think that American travelers are open-minded but probably not as curious. We often seem to arrive in foreign places with certain stereotypes in mind and it is a challenge for us to push past those.

Madame Grandin writes much as a travel writer experiencing a new place would write. As a travel writer I find that amazing. Did she have any prior writing experience?

I agree. Though a number of French women published accounts of their visits to America during this time, Madame Grandin’s is by far the most interesting in terms of her perceptive observations and her lively style. Unfortunately, I have not found any evidence that she published anything either before or after this book. I had hoped to find some information about how she managed to secure a book contract for Impressions d’une parisienne à Chicago but have not had any luck.

Do you know what her purpose was in writing this account?

In the preface, Madame Grandin explains why she wrote this account. First, she emphasizes how important it is for French people to travel and learn about other cultures. She then acknowledges that certain constraints prevent people from taking trips so her goal was to convey information about her experiences in America to those who did not have the opportunity to travel.

Read it for yourself…you’ll be glad you did.

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Traveling Healthy?

Recently I came across some websites that really might help those of you who want to travel a little healthier. Ever wonder where you can find a restaurant with some healthy choices? Check out www.menupages.com. Perhaps you will find the city where you are traveling. If so, you can scan menus of healthy restaurants in that city.

Feel like getting out and walking? Take a look at www.witur.com where self-guided walking tours are available.

How about taking a bike ride next time you are on vacation? Check out www.rentabikenow.com where hundreds of cycling shops nationwide are listed. Also included is free roadside assistance in case you have technical duties while biking.
These are just a few great sites to get you started. Have fun and stay healthy.
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First Strawberries

Down the street, around the corner and to the strawberry patch I went. Today was the first day these taste-better-than they look berries were ready.

Since they were picked this morning, these plump juicy strawberries are now ready for dinner…mine. And I didn’t even have to pick them. It doesn’t get any better than that.
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Pacific Coast Dream Machines Show

Head to Half Moon Bay April 25…

For a remarkable and singular experience, there’s nothing that matches up to the Pacific Coast Dream Machines Show, Half Moon Bay’s massive celebration of mechanical ingenuity, power and style. It’s a whimsical, fascinating, amusing, curious and absolutely unique show and tell spectacle featuring 2,000 magnificent driving, flying and working machines from the 20th and 21st centuries. The world’s coolest cars of every era and style, model-T fire engines, vintage busses, custom motorcycles, tricked out trucks, sleek streamliners, one-of-a-kind antique engines and tractors and historic military aircraft will be among the mesmerizing displays. The spectacular 20th annual show takes place on Sunday, April 25 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Half Moon Bay Airport, located in the picturesque seaside town of Half Moon Bay about 20 miles south of San Francisco..

Proud owners show up in cars that come in all shapes, colors and sizes. Spectators will get a rare up-close look at antique horseless carriages and Ford Model T’s, fanciful touring and luxury cars, powerful sports cars, custom cars and street rods, muscle cars, vintage and modern era high-performance race cars, quirky art and pedal cars, modified street machines with cutting edge styles, exotic high-performance cars, stylish European cars, ultra cool low-riders, sporty compacts, modified imports with flashy graphics, fashionable hip-hop urban show cars, homebuilt kit cars, super-charged turbo cars and trucks, “green” technology/alternative fuel vehicles, streamliners, dragsters, funny cars, gassers, and jet cars.

Spectator admission is $20 for adults, $10 for age 11-17 and 65+, and free for kids age 10 and under. Tickets are available at the gate only. Half Moon Bay Airport (9850 N. Cabrillo Highway) is located on Highway 1, 20 miles south of San Francisco and 5 miles north of Highway 92. For information, call 650-726-2328.

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Lake Hennessey Hike

For those of you in northern California looking for an easy hike, check out Lake Hennessey. You may get to see some hot air balloons over Napa on your way.

Trees overhanging the lake in some places. Other places the hike is a wide open trail along the lake. If it has been raining…the trail stays wet in low lying spots.

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Travel Tips for Your Skin

Have a long flight ahead of you? Want to look somewhat refreshed when you land? You don’t want to back all your skin essentials yet you need to pack to keep your skin healthy and refreshed.

Maybe some of these tips will help…

We’ve all heard to drink lots of water when flying…but did you know to avoid alcohol, caffeine and asparagus? They are all diuretics that will rob your skin of its moisture.

Streamline your routine for an easier trip by paring it down to two essential ingredients. Find a moisturizer that doubles as a sunscreen and a great eye cream.

Don’t apply your makeup before flying. I know it’s hard but on a long trip you will be glad you waited. Pack your moisturizing cream and eye cream in your carry-on bag. Apply your moisturizer when you get settled in your seat and your eye cream right before you land. Keeping your eye cream chilled in a glass of ice does wonders. Also avoid the peanuts, pretzels and chips as they add salt and puffiness to your face.

Since all airplane air is re-circulated and overly dry, try misting your face with mineral water using a water spritzer.

Travel well.

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Check out these suggestions from the folks at Budget Travel…

Kentucky Derby
July 1, 2010
Check out the Churchill Downs track on race day where they sell an unlimited number of $40 general-admission tickets. Or buy them in advance on their website. The passes give you standing-room-only access to the track’s two hotspots: the grassy, 40-acre infield and the paved paddock area, where socialites in over-the-top hats sip mint juleps. Go to www.kentuckyderby.com

Wimbledon
June 21–July 4, 2010
Tickets for England’s premier tennis tournament can be found for $13 to $32, slashed after 5 p.m. to $8 to $23. However, if you are looking for better seats, bring a tent and join one of the world’s best-organized overnight lines. You’ll be in a good position to nab one of the 1,500 or so tickets that organizers set aside each day for Centre Court and Courts 1 and 2 (from $55 to $137, cash only).check out www.wimbledon.org.

World Cup
June 11–July 11, 2010
Apparently tickets to the first-ever World Cup in Africa aren’t easy to come by. However, 64 matches are being televised on giant screens in fan parks spread across South Africa, from coastal Cape Town to Polokwane in the wildlife-rich north. Those festivities will be accompanied by live music, street soccer, and even foosball matches. Go to www.fifa.com/worldcup.

Tour de France
July 3–25, 2010
This year, the 2,200-mile course sweeps through the Netherlands, Belgium, and France, including Reims (July 7) and Bordeaux (July 23). You can wait for the final push along the Champs-Élysées in Paris (July 25). Since it takes longer to pedal up steep stretches than on the flatter surfaces where racers zoom by at over 30 mph, you will have more face time with the cyclists if you grab a spot in the French Alps. There are no tickets or bleachers for spectators, so fanatics pitch tents over-night for the best asphalt with a view. Check out www.letour.fr.