Category: Escapes

Posted on by

Visit Morro Bay and California’s Central Coast

If you landed in a seaside village with a mild Mediterranean climate and heard the term “Gibraltar of the Pacific”, would you have any idea where you were? Would it help if you saw a 576-foot volcanic plug sitting at the mouth of the harbor, a harbor the US Coast Guard regards as one of the most dangerous harbors in the nation? Here’s a hint. You’re about to visit the Central California coast. Morro Bay, to be exact.

Morro Rock, the volcanic plug, was named by Juan Cabrillo during his voyage in 1542. He called it El Moro, supposedly as it reminded him of the Moor’s turbans. It was changed to Morro, meaning pebble, crown, or nose. This 22 or 23 million year old rock isn’t alone along this coast. It’s one of Nine Sisters of rocks, formed by volcanic activity and extending form Morro Bay to San Luis Obispo.

While the rock is impressive and easy to see why it’s compared to Gibraltar, there’s more to experience here than just sitting at a waterfront patio, sipping wine from a nearby winery, and watching dozens of otters play in the bay. Although, that’s not a bad way to spend a couple of hours. This is the central California coast where Morro Bay is just one of many seaside towns and villages.

For some exercise, leave your car and walk to Morro Rock. No longer open for climbing, this massive rock becomes even more massive the closer you get. Peregrine Falcons and about 250 other species of birds call it home. From here, the giant waves hitting the seawall are spectacular. Prepare to get sprayed. Rent a kayak or paddle board and explore the bay up close. Sea lions and otters will keep you company as they play alongside you.

Looking for day trips along the central coast of California? Spend time in the Morro Bay State Park, just a few minutes from the center of Morro Bay. Plenty of trails to walk, birds to watch at the Heron Rookery Natural Preserve, interactive exhibits at the Museum of Natural History, and from November to February the roosting Monarch Butterflies are here. With plenty of sunshine, don’t forget your sunscreen.

Want to wander a little further? A few minutes north is the beach town of Cayucos, which was named the best beach town in California by a popular travel magazine. Watch the waves, take a walk on the California Coastal Trail, or take a hike up to Black Hill.

Or, travel just 30 minutes north to San Simeon and visit the Hearst Castle. This is truly a museum, but not like any other museum you’ve ever experienced. The legendary William Randolph Hearst built and occupied this grand residence, the “Enchanted Hill”, overlooking the ocean and acres below it. Advance tickets are a must, but definitely worth it.

If you’re looking for award-winning wines to taste, head inland to Paso Robles. With over 200 wineries, many boutique and small family owned ones, the Paso blends of Bordeaux, Rhone, and Zinfandel varietals, are sure to please your palette. The proximity to the Pacific Ocean, numerous canyons and hills, a variety of microclimates all combine to create the perfect region for growing grapes. I bet you find some new favorites.

Wherever your day trip was, when it’s finished, head back to Morro Bay for dinner by the bay. Enjoy ocean-to-table seafood, wine from the Paso area, the cool ocean breezes after a warm day inland, and then bring your day to a close by watching the sun slip into the Pacific next to Morro Rock. Ships in the bay appear to be highlighted in a gold light and depending on the time of year, the sky glows pinkish or orange. Morro Rock’s reflection changes from minute to minute. Your camera will work overtime.

If You Go: Morro Bay is located 12 miles northwest of San Luis Obispo, California on California Highway 1. More trips can be found at https://travelsandescapes.net/

Posted on by

The Enchanted Hill

Do you remember the movie, ‘Citizen Kane’? Do you know what it has in common with The Enchanted Hill?

Citizen Kane, the movie, and the hilltop structure known as The Enchanted Hill in San Simeon, California have much in common. The first is supposedly based on the life of American newspaper magnate, William Randolph Hearst and has been labeled the greatest film ever made. However, Hearst prohibited mention of the film in any of his newspapers.

The Enchanted Hill is what Hearst called his home with its magnificent gardens and exotic zoo. Sitting high above the Pacific Ocean, this Mediterranean style country house features guest cottages each named for its view, endless gardens, over-sized swimming pools, and countless terraces. The zoo is long gone but zebras and other critters still roam around the property mixed in with the cattle.

Check out the Neptune Pool, supposedly rebuilt three times before Hearst was completely satisfied with it. Looking at it today…it was worth all that tinkering. Marble statues of nymphs and swans around the pool were carved by French sculptor Charles Cassou. Holding 345,000 gallons of water, this pool was heated year-round until the 1970’s. Crystal clear it is still filtered using a sand filtering system.

Slightly smaller at only 205,000 gallons the Roman Pool, apparently styled after the Roman Baths, is decorated from floor to ceiling with one-inch mosaic tiles. Blue and orange glass tiles alternate with clear ones having fused gold inside. Looking up at the roof and dome, you see more mosaics…this time midnight blue ones interspersed with stars. Eight marble statues complete the setting. ‘Wow’ is the only word you will be able to utter when you round the corner. 

Back outside, saunter along the Esplanade walkway connecting gardens with the rest of the buildings. Every direction you look provides visual pleasures. Roses, flowering annuals, boxwood hedges, citrus trees, and palms mix with 19th and 20th century statues, ancient sarcophagi, fountains, and the Sekhmet sculptures, four Egyptian pieces over three thousand years old. Stop for a minute on the Main Terrace and look around. Endless views of the Pacific Ocean are to your south and the Santa Lucia Mountains are to the north. In the background you will hear the sound of water, an important effect in Mediterranean gardens.

Hearst inherited the 250,000 acre working cattle ranch from his mother and called it “Camp Hill”, a wilderness place for family members and friends to rough it on camping trips. Keep in mind roughing it meant accommodations included elaborate arrangements, separate sleeping quarters, and dining tents. At one point Hearst decided camping out in the open was not what he wanted. Enter famed San Francisco architect Julia Morgan who worked with Hearst to build his dream home…and it ended up as one of the world’s greatest showplaces. Thus the name…The Enchanted Hill.

By 1947 La Cuesta Encantada was completed. Blending the architectural styles of a Spanish cathedral and Mediterranean Revival style houses and utilizing the surrounding California land, this was a creation to behold. After all, who would expect to see this grand structure rising high on the hills complete with grazing cattle and a zoo with zebra to polar bears?

Engineering and architectural features are everywhere.  A gravity-based water delivery system, private cinema with rare books lining the shelves, 56 bedrooms, ceilings imported from all over the world, an indoor pool to delight even the non-swimmers, hidden terraces, doors to secret hallways, an amazing wine cellar, and a kitchen with some pretty fascinating appliances are only a few surprises.

This is no longer just a place for celebrities and famous guests to come and enjoy. It is a palace in every sense of the imagination.

If you go: Hearst Castle is located in the hills at San Simeon, on California Highway 1, about halfway between San Francisco and Los Angeles. Advanced reservations are highly recommended, especially during the summer months. Check out www.hearstcastle.com or call 800-444-4445.

Information about other castles and places to visit can be found /https://travelsandescapes.net/

Posted on by

Visit Amboy Crater in California

Want to visit an extinct volcano? Ever heard of Amboy Crater in California? You can visit Amboy Crater, California and climb to its rim.

Amboy Crater is an extinct North American cinder cone type of  volcano, located in one of the youngest volcanic fields in the US. It rises above a 27 square mile lava field in southern California . This 250-foot-high crater is 1,500 feet in diameter.

Located in the Barstow-Bristol trough, a conspicuous west-northwest trending physiographic feature, this field was created by at least four distinct periods of eruptions, resulting in a group of volcanic cinder cones. The most recent eruption of Amboy Crater was about 10,000 years ago.

A visit to Amboy Crater will offer one of the best examples in the Mojave Desert of a volcanic cinder cone. It is situated in one of the youngest volcanic fields in the United States.

 A footpath leads to the top of the cone of Amboy Crater, where you can get a good view of the surrounding area. The hike to the Crater and back can take 2-3 hours. Late January through March are good times to see the wildflowers. Plus, it’s a whole lot cooler to visit Amboy Crater then.

Designated a National Natural Landmark in 1973, Amboy Crater was recognized for its visual and geological significance. Although Amboy Crater is not unique, it is an excellent example of a very symmetrical volcanic cinder cone.

The inside of the 250′ high crater contains two lava dams. Behind these, are some small lava lakes. Not what you think of when you hear the word lake, these flat places are covered with light colored clay, creating the impression of miniature “dry lakes.” There is a breach on the west side of the crater where basaltic lava poured out over a vast area. Beyond the crater lies 24 square miles of lava flow containing such features as lava lakes, collapsed lava tubes and sinks, spatter cones, and massive flows of basalt.

The scenic and solitary Amboy Crater was a popular sight and stop for travelers on US Route 66 before Interstate 40 was completed in 1973. Amboy Crater was one of few extinct volcanoes along the entire route, so travelers from the 1920s through the 1960s could boast that they had climbed a real volcano. Visits decreased after Interstate 40 opened, but have increased in recent years with the tourism interest in “old Route 66.”

The Federal Bureau of Land Management recommends using the Western Cone Trail if you are interested in reaching the volcano peak’s rim. Be prepared…this is a steep and rocky trail. Start at the Amboy Crater day use parking area, which provides shaded and open picnic tables and public restrooms. Regular desert precautions apply here. Be alert for rattlesnakes and old military explosives. Wear a hat, sunscreen, sturdy shoes, and carry abundant drinking water. If you think you have enough water…take some more.

Educational and organized groups are advised to contact the Bureau before heading out to Amboy Crater.

To get to the trailhead: From Barstow, take Interstate 40 west to exit 50. Turn right on Crucero Road and make an immediate left onto Route 66. Take route 66 for 26 miles to the crater.

Other interesting trips can be found here https://travelsandescapes.net/

Posted on by

Minerve, France

Minerve sits on a rocky outcrop, perched over a couple of rivers in the Hérault department in the Occitanie region in southern France. It is the namesake of the Minervois wine region. It is bordered to the south by the Canal du Midi and to the north by the Montagne Noire mountain range.

The scenery is breathtaking with gorges and canyons carved in the limestone walls over eons, bridges built where they appear out of those walls, tunnels carved into rock, and houses perched in and atop the limestone. Some look suspended, as if a mild breeze would topple them into the caverns below.

We wandered the streets and alleys, climbing up and over walkways and gardens, taking in the views, and thinking of the history here. This was a medieval village and all that went with it.

Some history…


With the backing of God and the Pope, with men hungry for loot and blood, Simon de Montfort laid seige, to the impregnable fortress village. And to speed things along he attacked St Rustique’s well, the principal waters source for the village, found at the base of the village. Four catapults were set up around the village, -three towards the city gates and the fourth – the largest named “Malevoisine” to destroy the well.

The village was well protected with double surrounding walls, and overhanging ledges. But, they could not withstand the attacks and eventually several villagers were burned at the stake.

Now, little is left of the fortress. The village is a hodge-podge of narrow alleys, topped by a simple 12th century church.

Definitely worth a side trip if you are staying in the area.

If You Go: Minerve is 25 kilometers north-west of Narbonne in Languedoc-Roussillon. It is classified as one of the most beautiful villages of France.

Posted on by

Collioure, France

Only 15 miles from Spain, Collioure is a mix of French, Spanish, and Catalan. We saw French street signs, yellow and red Catalan flags, with a mix of Spanish thrown in.

On the Mediterranean coast of southern France, called the Vermillion Coast, Collioure’s views are just what we had hoped for. Dramatic… picturesque…postcard perfect. All overused words and yet they all fit.

Beaches ranged from pebbly to sandy. All tumbled from the wall-like Pyrenees into the clear blue Med. We could see why painters have flocked here for centuries, trying to capture some of the essence of this piece of paradise.

Taking time to wander, then sit at one of the many outdoor terraced cafes, we wondered why we hadn’t come here earlier. And…stayed longer.

Our day-long visit was too short.

But there is next time…as soon as we can travel again.

Posted on by

Canal du Midi

Built between 1667 and 1694 in the province of Languedoc, this canal was the result of the vision of Pierre-Paul Riquet to connect the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea.

The idea was to provide safe transport, avoid pirates of the Gibraltar straits, and shorten the distance to deliver goods throughout the region. The 328 structures of this engineering feat include locks, aqueducts, bridges, and tunnels.

In 1997 this site became a UNESCO protected site.

The Canal du Midi is 240 km long, about 150 miles. It rises 620 feet above sea level at its highest point and zero feet at its lowest. The maximum boat length is 98 feet.

Exploring France in the Languedoc region, we drove over, beside, and around countless parts of the Canal du Midi.

Vacationers in luxury hotel boats cruised peacefully, barges delivered groceries and necessities, and self-guided boats docked along the many bike paths. Restaurants and bars were plenty along the tree-lined canal.

We stopped on bridges to wave to those aboard a boat and toasted those passing by with a glass of wine. All of us were having a good day.

Definitely a place worth exploring…both on and off the canal.

Posted on by

Braseria La Llar

Braseria La Llar

Traveling from Barcelona, Spain to Narbonne, France lunch seemed like a great idea. Our early morning coffee and pastries were just a memory. Not even a crumb remained.

Problem was…where to stop? Restaurants were not evident along the highway, so we pulled into a small town where we noticed a sign for a restaurant atop a building.

Weaving through the many side streets of the village, we finally came upon the restaurant with the sign. This side trip turned out to be one of the best lunch adventures we have had.

Scents of smoking meats permeated the air, getting more fragrant the closer we came to the restaurant’s courtyard. If we weren’t already hungry, these smells would certainly have jump started our stomachs. Inside, we were greeted by a woman speaking a variation of Spanish. I can understand and speak some Spanish. So, some of her words made sense and others not so much.

Then it dawned on all of us, we were in the Catalonia part of Spain. The language was similar but different.

Telling us we were a little early for Sunday dinner, she seated us close to the kitchen. At least that’s what I think she said.

The smells became more demanding. In a good way.

When she handed us menus, I could only make out a few words. This was definitely a type of Spanish I did not know. Trying to tell her we did not speak the language only got us a smile from her before she disappeared. Wondering if I said something wrong, we looked around the restaurant. There was only one other table with people seated at it, a large one with about 20 people ranging in age from a baby to an elderly lady. That was it. The large group sounded like they were having a great time.

Our waitress stopped at that table and said something to a young girl of about 10 years old.

When she came to our table, she explained that she knew English from school. Her aunt was the waitress, her uncle ran the restaurant, and the party was for her grandmother’s birthday. We told her to wish her grandmother happy birthday.

As we enjoyed a lunch worthy of the smells, a second bottle of wine was brought to us compliments of the other table. All was good. They were having a great time and so were we.

After our plates were cleared, pieces of the most delicious birthday cake I have ever eaten were brought to us…again compliments of the birthday party.

Wishing grandma another happy birthday, we reluctantly made our way out to the car and headed for the highway.

Best impromptu birthday party we have ever been to…

If You Go: The Braseria La Llar Restaurant is located at the entrance of the village of Sant Celoni, at the foot of Montseny, strategic location for nature lovers, Easy access to the street: Mossen Jacint Verdaguer, 5. It is the star place to taste Catalan and mountain cuisine, in a classic style. In the dining room you will find an ideal space to make your meal quiet.

Posted on by

Dessert in the Abbey

It’s not often you can wander around a magnificent Abbey in the hills of France and then sit down to lunch with amazing wines and melt-in-your mouth dessert.

Within the Abbey is La Table de Fontfroide restaurant, complete with its Gault & Millau chef’s hat. The mostly Mediterranean cuisine is paired with wines produced by the abbey, from the abbey’s vineyards. They are open for both lunch and dinner. It’s best to check ahead of time for hours and reservations.

In the old 19 th century cellar of the Abbey of Fontfroide, converted into a sales cellar, discover their wines selected and labeled South of France. This allows you to share in the viticulture and its history of the Abbey.

OPENING
HOURS Tasting cellar open every day.
Sunday & Monday: 10 am to 6.30 pm
Tuesday to Saturday: 10 am to 8 pm

If You Go: Abbey de Frontfroide is located at Route Départementale 613, 11100 Narbonne, France.

Tel cellar: 04 68 45 50 72 – caveau@fontfroide.com

Posted on by

Abbey du Fontfroide, France

The Cistercian Abbey du Fontfroide is nestled in the foothills of the Corbières, south-west of Narbonne. Founded in 1093, Fontfroide, now classified as a Historic Monument and a Great Site of Occitania, crosses centuries, eras and events, witness to history for present and future generations.

Abbey du Fronfroide was founded in 1093, on land given to a few Benedictine monks by the Viscount of Narbonne. It takes its name from the nearby source, the Fons Frigidus, the Froide Fountain. Besides water, the monks could find wood and stone in the massif for the construction of the monastery.

But Fontfroide did not really develop until after 1145 and its attachment to the Order of Cîteaux . The Cistercian monks, under the direction of St Bernard of Clairvaux, wish to return to the purity of the rule of St Benedict, advocating poverty, austerity and architectural sobriety.

The Abbey du Fontfroide is imprinted within its walls with rich testimonies of these residences, including the monumental triptych by Odilon Redon “Day, Night and Silence” as well as stained glass windows by Richard Burgsthal.

Today, the descendants of Gustave Fayet still maintain the Abbey du Fontfroide with the same passion.

We spent the better part of a day wandering and exploring around and through the Abbey with its thick walls, massive stair cases, impressive gates and doors, and graceful archways. Peaceful courtyards beckoned for us to sit and reflect in the silence. Overhead, fragrant flowers perfumed the air. Statues watched over us. Garden paths wove in and around it all.

The sheer size of the Abbey and the grounds are amazing. Look out over the rooftops to the hills beyond.

If You Go: Abbey de Frontfroide is located at Route Départementale 613, 11100 Narbonne, France. Their phone number is +33 4 68 45 11 08

Check more posts for information on France https://travelsandescapes.net