Category: France

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Saint Remy Feria…Bulls

Saint Remy Feria…Bulls

Bulls were running in the streets. We were there. This was not Pamplona.

On our way into town, the owner of the apartment we had rented called and told us to arrive before 4:00 in the afternoon as the bulls would be running. Not having a clue what he was talking about, we made sure we arrived early.

Signs all over town advertised the Feria, the popular festival of summer. As we drove through the streets, we noticed huge, heavy metal barricades lining the streets. Were there really going to be bulls running down the streets? If the fences were any indication, there were.

Wondering what this was all about, we asked our host. He explained the festival brings all aspects of games involving bulls…except for killing them. It’s more of a four-day party celebrating harvest. There’s a parade where everyone wears traditional costumes and traditional brass bands go up and down almost every street. There are bull races, running of the bulls, and Camarguais horses. A Portuguese bullfight takes place…but no killing of the bulls.

Bulls are driven through the streets by teams of guardians riding gray-white Camarguais horses. The men and women carry long spears on the stocky horses. These horses are descendants of a very old breed with square jaws, long manes, thick necks, and big hoofs. They are famous for their agility and endurance, not necessarily for their beauty.

Each team herds their bulls, galloping at full speed through the streets. The goal is to drive the bulls up a ramp and into a truck. Teams are judged on speed, skill, and presentation.

Now we knew why the barricades were high, strong, and thick metal.

Once the riders started herding their bulls down the streets, cheers and clapping became almost deafening. A festival indeed.

We noticed another piece of this crazy run. Young men, mostly, step through the barricades and try to touch them on their back. Apparently, it’s for luck! Right…

As the festivities wind down, people head to their favorite bar to toast the night’s running of the bulls.

As for the parade…stay tuned.

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Popes Palace Avignon, France

Popes Palace, Avignon, France

Frist, a little history…

Much of the 14th century Italy was ravaged by wars. By 1309 Rome was basically a violent and unwelcoming city. So violent that Pope Clement V could not remain in the city of Rome.

The Popes then moved the center of the Catholic church to Avignon, France from 1309 to 1377. Seven different popes were in control of the church during that time. By 1377 Rome’s atmosphere had improved that the Pope was able to return.

During their time in Avignon, Pope Benoit XII and Pope Clement VI built the largest gothic style palace and church in the world. This took only 18 years to build most of the enormous series of buildings.

No expense was spared on building this as the Catholic church was eager to spend the money on the project. With 15,000 square meters of floor area, decorated lavishly, this was the most impressive building in the western world at the time it was completed.

In 1378 the French cardinals objected to a new Italian pope and they established an alternate pope in Avignon, Pope Clement VII. He reigned until 1394 and was succeeded by Pope Benedict XIII. These two were known as the Anti-Popes, dividing the Catholic church until 1403.

By the 15th century, the Popes Palace fell into disrepair for several centuries. After the French Revolution, the palace was used as a military prison. Since 1906 the palace has undergone major restoration.

To visit…

Spend at least an hour, more if you can, to wander through the 15,000 square meters of amazing space. Look up at the Department of Archives. It’s 52 meters up.

Enter the Popes Palace through the Porte des Champeaux, the main entrance in the middle of the front. The two turrets on either side are new since the originals have long since collapsed. There are two courtyards. The Great Courtyard, La Cour d’Honneur, and the Small Courtyard. You will see the New Palace with its Great Chapel and the Great Audience Hall.

A total of 25 rooms are open to visitors. Soaring architecture, frescoes, wall coverings, mosaic tiles, paintings, a pope’s personal chambers, and more are sites you don’t want to miss. The Papal Throne in the Popes Room is a careful copy, but still impressive. There are tombs of some Popes, a grand staircase, and so much more. Check out the watchtowers, marvel at how they built 10-foot-thick walls, and take extra time to make your way down some impossibly steep stairs to one of the gardens. Going back up is almost more challenging as you climb a narrow tower to the level above.

Some rooms even have computer screens depicting what that room would have looked like back in that time period.

Prebook a guided tour to avoid the crowds and the lines if you go during a busy time of year.

Classified as a UNESCO site in 1995 the Palace of the Popes is one of the 10 most visited sites in France.

If You Go: The Palace of the Popes is located at Pl. de Palais, Avignon, France

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Pont du Gard

Pont du Gard

Northeast of Nimes lies the town of Uzes. With its rich French heritage, considered the first duchy of France, and its dozens of small villages surrounded by oaks and pines Uzes has plenty to offer.

Perhaps the most famous and certainly a huge reminder is the Pont du Gard.

Located in the Occitanie region of France is the Pont du Gard, a three-story aqueduct bridge crossing the Gardon River. The Pont du Gard rests on a rocky base, creating a challenge for the builders.

A little history… Emperor Augustus, who expanded the city of Nimes, dreamt of making Nimes the rival to Rome. But, he needed water. There was a river. The river Eure met their needs, if they could get the water where they wanted it.

Emperor Claude decided to build an aqueduct, knowing there were two challenges. They had to bypass the Garrigues massif which separates Uzes from Nimes and they had to span the Gardon with its over 50-foot floods.

In only 15 years, the 49 meter high Pont du Gard was completed. At 52 km long, it is the highest in the Roman world. Stones from the Estel quarry, 500 meters away, were brought on flat-bottomed boats against a major river current. The arches of the aqueducts were massive at 24.5 meters. This was well over the norm at that time which was 13 meters. Nothing like that had ever been done.

With the water the aqueduct was able to transport for fountains, spas, and houses of the privileged the city of Uzes grew from just a few thousand to over 22,000.

The Pont du Gard has been considered one of the major accomplishments of the Roman civilization. It ceased to function around the beginning of the 6th century. Today it is located at a distance from the villages with only two buildings close to it.

This is a true masterpiece of Roman construction. This most-visited ancient monument in France is listed as a world heritage site by Unesco. Take some time to explore this amazing site.

If You Go: The Pont du Gard is located at 400 Rte du Pont du Gard, 30210 Vers-Pont-du-Gard, France

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Pommery Champagne House

Pommery Champagne House

Not only does Pommery produce an amazing dry Champagne, the history surrounding Madame Pommery is truly an interesting aspect of this house.

She was one of the great Champagne widows of the 19th century. She is the one you can credit with bring the sweeter sparkling wines to a dryer Champagne. Pommery was born in 1819 and married into a prominent wool family in Reims, France. Once her two sons were born, her husband left the wool industry and dived into the wine business. Two years later, he died. She was only 38 years old.

At that point she decided to carry on with his wine business, changing the business plan fairly quickly from red wines to sparkling wines. She had the uncanny ability to see that the English market would take a liking to delicate, fine, dry Champagne. And, it did.

Ahead of her time, she created Pommery Nature in 1874, the first brut Champagne that had major commercial success. In 1868 she decided to relocate to a different place and launched the “construction site of the century” in Reims. She used the crayeres chalkpits as wine cellars. French and Belgian miners had dug into the earth an interconnected set of tunnels.

Today, the variety of grapes used, the quality of the harvest, the selection of vintages for blends, and the time spent ageing in the cellar all add to the special flavors of Pommery Champagne.

So many processes and procedures go into making this Champagne, with oenologists and the Cellar Master testing the entire way. This ensures Pommery’s distinctive aroma, flavor, and quality will be there in every bottle.

Take a tour, taste the Champagne, and do not miss the lower level of galleries. The staircase alone is amazing if not monumental. With 116 steps down is the only connection to the lower level of caves from the main level.

Art, sculptures, and rotating exhibits are tastefully arranged throughout the lower level. The Pommery Champagne house is not only a feast for your mouth…it’s a feast for your eyes as well.

Cheers!

If You Go: Pollery is located at 5 Place du General Gouraud, Reims, France

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Travel to France

Some of the latest requirements if you plan on traveling to France from t he United States. These were compiled from the State Department, posts from The Points Guy, and information from the French travel sites.

There have been many updates and changing protocols surrounding COVID-19 for visiting France. Here are some of the most recent that took place January 3, 2022.

Fully vaccinated travelers from the US who are 18 and older may enter France by showing proof of vaccination, results of a negative COVID-19 test (PCR or antigen) taken within 48 hours prior to departure for France and a sworn statement attesting they do not have any symptoms of COVID-19 nor have had any contact with any confirmed cases  of COVID-19.

Currently, France recognizes vaccines approved by the World Health Organization and European Medicines Agency. These are Pfizer, Moderna, AstraZeneca, and Johnson & Johnson. Those who have received a full dose of a WHO licensed vaccine not approved by the  EMA require an additional single dose of an EMA approved mRNA vaccine, either Pfizer or Moderna.

Travelers are considered fully vaccinated 28 days after receiving one dose o f a single-does vaccine, seven days after days after receiving a two-dose vaccine or seven days after receiving an additional dose of an EMA-approved  mRNA vaccine for those who received a WHO-licensed vaccine not approved by the EMA.

Per the U.S. Embassy in France, the  card issued by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention is considered “sufficient proof of vaccination for entry.”

Entry requirements for unvaccinated travelers may only enter France if they possess a compelling reason for travel,  including students and those transiting France for less than 24 hours.

Unvaccinated Americans approved for entry must show a negative COVID-19 test (PCR or antigen) performed within 48 hours before departure and are also subject to a second test upon arrival. They must quarantine for 10 days, followed by an additional test.

Testing, vaccination and booster requirements apply to travelers who are 12 and older, and American visitors must show results of a negative PCR or antigen test taken within 48 hours to enter the country.

“Travelers under age 11 are treated as vaccinated regardless of their vaccination status and do not need to have a COVID test. Travelers ages 11 through 17 are treated as vaccinated if they are accompanied by a fully vaccinated parent or guardian,” says the embassy. “Travelers in this age group traveling independently must meet the rules applicable to adult travelers.”

A French health pass is required to access most indoor public spaces, including restaurants/bars, museums, entertainment venues and sporting facilities. It’s also necessary for long-distance travel throughout the country on public transit. A health pass can be obtained for $40 by showing proof of vaccination at a local French pharmacy on a walk-in basis. Unvaccinated or partially vaccinated travelers can obtain a temporary 24-hour pass by taking a rapid antigen test at a pharmacy. Temporary pass holders will need to procure a new pass after the 24-hour period.

The French government previously announced they expect use of the “pass sanitaire” to continue through at least July.

As of Jan. 15, all travelers to France age 18 and older must show proof of a COVID-19 booster shot taken within five to seven months after their final dose of a COVID-19 vaccine in order to retain an active health pass. Prior to this date, the booster is only required for those 65 and older.

Face masks remain mandatory for all those in indoor public spaces throughout the country and are required outdoors in Paris as of Dec. 31, 2021, including in markets. Outdoor mask requirements vary throughout France, so consult local authorities before visiting your destination.

For more travel information on France and to see how the rules are evolving check out https://travelsandescapes.net/?s=france

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Freixenet, Spanish Cava

Freixenet, a Spanish Cava, is known as a pioneer in many ways. They were the first to use black and yellow bottles and the first to use French methods to create their Cava. Currently, their botanists manage and develop fully sustainable vineyards.

In 1889 Pedro Ferrer married Dolores Sala, whose family had been making wine since 1861. At that time, they decided to convert from still wine to making sparkling wine. Their first bottle was released in 1914.

The name Freixenet comes from Pedro’s nickname of El Freixenet, named after his family’s ranch La Freixenet. It means ash tree grove in Catalan.

History wasn’t kind and their success was not an easy road.

America’s flirtation with prohibition stalled the blooming export market for their Cava. Later, the Spanish Civil War took the lives of Pedro and his eldest son, both captured and never seen again. Yet, despite the tragedy and setbacks, Dolores Ferrer and her three surviving daughters resurrected the company.

In 1957 Dolores handed the reins to her son, José Ferrer who initiated progressive (and first-ever in Spain) techniques such as pressing grapes pneumatically, using refrigerated tanks to control fermentation, and proprietary yeast cultivation. In the 1970’s he introduced, against the advice of his peers, the black bottle Cordon Negro. 

During our visit to Freixenet, we learned more of their history.

Who drinks the most Cava?  Germany, followed by the United States.

The yeast Dolores identified decades ago is the most suited to making quality Cava. Guess what? It still survives. The winery dedicates an entire lab and warehouse-sized facility to the production of this yeast.

Gloria Ferrer, wife of Jose Ferrer, owns one of the world’s largest glass flute collections. She has over 2,000 individual flutes from all over the world. She is also the namesake for their California-based sparkling wine company, Gloria Ferrer.

There are three main grapes in Cava. Macabeo, paralleda, and xarel-lo. Producers are allowed to use nine grapes including pinot noir, chardonnay, monastrell, grenache, malvasia, and trepat.

Cava is made in the same way Champagne is made, with secondary fermentation occurring in the bottle. Even though the methods are the same, the taste profiles are noticeably different.

Visiting Freixenet is similar to visiting Champagne houses, yet at the same time quite different.

Reservations must be made in advance. Our tour started with a brief history of Freixenet and then we were led down several flights of stairs. At each level we noticed a decidedly cooler temperature. In all, we descended 20 meters.

Once at the bottom, we boarded a tram to continue our tour. Riding through the narrow winding caves lined with dusty bottles of Cava, it was clear this is a huge operation. Every where we looked were stacks and stacks of bottles.

Every so often we would see broken bottles on the floor. Our host explained that some bottles just explode before they are ready. I can’t imagine what that must sound like.

Our tram took us underground past barrels and production, arriving back to street level. The best part was yet to come…tasting four different types of Cava. A great end to a wonderful day.

If you are in the Barcelona area and are interested in Cava, this tour is well worth taking. For times and reservations, check out https://www.freixenet.es/en/wine-tourism/freixenet-wineries/visit-the-wineries.

If You Go: Freixenet is located at  Plaça Joan Sala, 2, 08770 Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, Barcelona, Spain. We took the train from Barcelona, about a two-hour ride. It’s an easy side trip.

Find out more exiting places to experience wine at https://travelsandescapes.net/